Harley Davidson Pan America Forum banner
1 - 20 of 25 Posts

malinois781

· Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
Discussion starter · #1 ·
Has anyone done a clutch pack replacement? I am on my third clutch replacement on my 22 PAS, and they refuse to pay for the replacement. I believe my dealer was not correctly adjusting the clutch cable tensioner during my routine maintenance. I had an extended maintenance plan, and they bike was serviced regularly. I kept requesting them to look at the clutch because it was slipping, but they kept telling me it was fine. The first clutch went out at 5k miles. They replaced the clutch pack and the pressure plate with a factory new one, and now I am at 11k, and the clutch is slipping again. I have heard the Barnett clutch pack is far better, so I will put that in. Has anyone done a clutch on the PAS?
 
There are a few threads about clutch adjustment, try that before you tear into the clutch. I re adjust mine after every service.
 
A technical service bulletin was issued in September 2024 nearly doubling the recommended clutch cable freeplay.

This bulletin informs dealers that the clutch cable free play specification has been updated on all Revolution® Max vehicles.
Original specification: 1–2 mm (0.039–0.079 in).
Free play has now been changed to: 2–3 mm (0.079–0.118 in)
All online electronic service manuals and future publications will reflect this information.
 
A technical service bulletin was issued in September 2024 nearly doubling the recommended clutch cable freeplay.

This bulletin informs dealers that the clutch cable free play specification has been updated on all Revolution® Max vehicles.
Original specification: 1–2 mm (0.039–0.079 in).
Free play has now been changed to: 2–3 mm (0.079–0.118 in)
All online electronic service manuals and future publications will reflect this information.
Thanks for the heads up! I've been using a US Nickel as a feeler gage. (.077).
 
Has anyone done a clutch pack replacement? I am on my third clutch replacement on my 22 PAS, and they refuse to pay for the replacement. I believe my dealer was not correctly adjusting the clutch cable tensioner during my routine maintenance. I had an extended maintenance plan, and they bike was serviced regularly. I kept requesting them to look at the clutch because it was slipping, but they kept telling me it was fine. The first clutch went out at 5k miles. They replaced the clutch pack and the pressure plate with a factory new one, and now I am at 11k, and the clutch is slipping again. I have heard the Barnett clutch pack is far better, so I will put that in. Has anyone done a clutch on the PAS?
Just curious: what oil are you using?
 
I'm not going to recommend a brand but the TYPE of oil is specific. Do not use an oil made for a car as some of these have friction inhibitors which will cause a wet clutch to slip. I know this from experience using regular Mobil 1 in a motorcycle. However there is a Mobil 1 specifically for motorcycles with a wet clutch
 
I'm not going to recommend a brand but the TYPE of oil is specific. Do not use an oil made for a car as some of these have friction inhibitors which will cause a wet clutch to slip. I know this from experience using regular Mobil 1 in a motorcycle. However there is a Mobil 1 specifically for motorcycles with a wet clutch
Thanks for info ;) , Susty.
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
41 views and no comments, I’ll be the one. if you can’t figure out how to adjust the clutch cable play, I would advise not trying to tackle the clutch replacement on your own. Find a different shop. It really would be proper to learn the basics of maintaining a motorcycle if you want to be a safe rider.
I was adjusting the clutch so was my dealer and as you see further down the thread according to tech manuals they were adjusting too tight which is likely the cause of me burning up two clutches.... I have three bikes this is the only one I am burning clutches on so theres obiviously another issue.
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
There are a few threads about clutch adjustment, try that before you tear into the clutch. I re adjust mine after every service.
Its allready beyond that point, my dealer took it apart but when I complained that this was the thrid clutch pack and I felt they were improperly adjusting the clutch I wasnt gonna pay them to just screw it up again. Hence I am gonna try and replace it on my own.
 
Lol, stupid engineers!

I put new clutch springs in an 01 vulcan many years ago. The frame rail ran in front of the bolts that hold the cover on. Not only do you have to remove the header pipe, you have to unbolt the engine and jack it up just enough to slide the bolts out, after you loosen them with a wrench. Or you can unbolt the engine cradle from the sub frame and bend it a bit, (hoping it doesn't crease) until you can clear the bolts. Absolutely no reason for it to be that way.

Don't get me started on changing a starter o-ring on a Goldwing. Or for that matter, the water pump on a newer model Ford expedition (which for some stupid reason, is now an INTERNAL, gear driven engine component) .. Lunacy I tell you! Lunacy!
 
1 - 20 of 25 Posts