Harley Davidson Pan America Forum banner
1 - 10 of 10 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone installed a Black Dog skid plate on their Pan America special?
I attempted to install one today. It will not bolt on without hitting the voltage regulator. With the front 2 bolts loosely in place, the rear of the plate is still over an inch from reaching the mounting bar that Black Dog supplies with the skid plate.
If I push the plate up to the bar so the rear bolts can be threaded in, the front of the plate pulls back on the bottom of the voltage regular. The regulator is mounted to a plastic bracket that flexes upon contact with the skid plate. I have no doubt that this contact will either crack the mounting bracket or damage the voltage regulator. Most likely both of these things will happen
Has anyone else had this problem? If so, did you contact Black Dog about the problem? What did they say?
I’ve been running a Black Dog skid plate on a R1200GS for over 10 years. The plate has withstood a lot of abuse. The only thing I’ve had to do is replace the mounts that come with the plate twice. They bend/crack with repeated contact with rocks etc… I expect this with repeated ground contact. I also expect to be able to install a new plate on a nearly new bike with no clearance issues.
Any input would be welcome.
 

· Premium Member
2021 Deadwood (OD) Green PanAm, 2007 Pearl Yellow RK Custom
Joined
·
253 Posts
Tire Automotive tire Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Plant


Mine was a tad pain getting the rear/bracket bolts to line up and notice the front was little awkward. But I did play with it and bolts all went in and the front attached way it should.... So I might not have either noticed whats happening to you or mine installed way it should.... honestly, my issue was with the center stand springs, getting them off and back on... oh, This is my first adv bike and BDCW guard. Again, it was a bit of pain to get bolts lined up and started but I was able to.

Sorry not much help but thought I'd say I was able to get mine installed and bike still operates.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
View attachment 1467

Mine was a tad pain getting the rear/bracket bolts to line up and notice the front was little awkward. But I did play with it and bolts all went in and the front attached way it should.... So I might not have either noticed whats happening to you or mine installed way it should.... honestly, my issue was with the center stand springs, getting them off and back on... oh, This is my first adv bike and BDCW guard. Again, it was a bit of pain to get bolts lined up and started but I was able to.

Sorry not much help but thought I'd say I was able to get mine installed and bike still operates.
ODGreen,

Thanks for the input. I have a request. Could you post 2 more pictures?

1 a closeup looking through the vent holes at the regulator. As low as possible. I’m trying to see if your skid plate contacts the regulator the way mine does.

2 a shot of the bottom bolt on the right brush guard. My skid plate makes contact with the flange that the bolt goes through on the brush guard shortly after making contact with the regulator. I want to see if your skid plate has adequate clearance there.

Thank you
 

· Premium Member
2021 Deadwood (OD) Green PanAm, 2007 Pearl Yellow RK Custom
Joined
·
253 Posts
First off, don't think pics are gonna be helpful. Pretty difficult taking a good pic with light and focus.
But it looks very tight but does have room and I could see me touching/scraping regulator during install but at the time I didn't notice.
So here's a handful hopefully you'll be able to make sense out of them.

If/when you hear from BDCW I'd like to know what they say.
Sorry if this just confused you more


Automotive tire Grille Automotive design Sports gear Tire


Grille Automotive tire Automotive exterior Rim Automotive lighting


Mesh Grey Font Material property Composite material


Tire Automotive tire Bumper Automotive design Rim


Hood Automotive tire Automotive lighting Automotive design Road surface


Automotive lighting Automotive tire Motor vehicle Hood Bumper


Automotive tire Automotive lighting Automotive design Camera lens Flash photography


Mesh Grey Font Material property Composite material


Automotive tire Hood Automotive design Bumper Automotive exterior


Motor vehicle Hood Automotive tire Bumper Automotive exterior
 

· Registered
2021 Pan America 1250S
Joined
·
18 Posts
Has anyone installed a Black Dog skid plate on their Pan America special?
I attempted to install one today. It will not bolt on without hitting the voltage regulator. With the front 2 bolts loosely in place, the rear of the plate is still over an inch from reaching the mounting bar that Black Dog supplies with the skid plate.
If I push the plate up to the bar so the rear bolts can be threaded in, the front of the plate pulls back on the bottom of the voltage regular. The regulator is mounted to a plastic bracket that flexes upon contact with the skid plate. I have no doubt that this contact will either crack the mounting bracket or damage the voltage regulator. Most likely both of these things will happen
Has anyone else had this problem? If so, did you contact Black Dog about the problem? What did they say?
I’ve been running a Black Dog skid plate on a R1200GS for over 10 years. The plate has withstood a lot of abuse. The only thing I’ve had to do is replace the mounts that come with the plate twice. They bend/crack with repeated contact with rocks etc… I expect this with repeated ground contact. I also expect to be able to install a new plate on a nearly new bike with no clearance issues.
Any input would be welcome.
I installed mine last week. Good quality and looks nice on bike. I had a hell of a time getting the rear to line up properly so I could install the bolts. I didn't consider that it may be hitting the voltage regulator up front. Everything appeared fine. I am not looking forward to removing at my next service, however, at that time I may look at "slotting" the 4 bolt holes to give me a little more flexibility when remounting. One thing I did notice pulling into garage, yesterday - I went to put side stand down, however, it was stuck in the up position. I pushed my rear stand down a little and this seemed to have released my side stand. I have not looked to see what the issue was, however, never had this issue prior to putting on skid plate.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Mine went like so;

Attached both rear screws. Then, with a bit of a fight (explained below), attached the front left screw, which left the right front screw approximately 3/4” below where it needed to be to attach. Any effort to force that side of the plate high enough to insert screw was futile. Close inspection revealed the rubber bumper-brick (glued to the top of the plate) was FIRMLY hitting the engine case’s ridges where the two halves meet, as well contacting a pair of the side-to-side screw bosses that join the case halves, each of which protrude down towards the skid plate nearly as far as the case’s center ridges. After Dremeling relief troughs in the rubber brick, the plate was finally able to swing up high enough that both its forward screw holes were the right height, while the unDremeled remainder of the rubber bumper’s upper surface dutifully nestled against the engine case… like Black Dog intended I reckon.

The next issue was the forward plate holes were ever so slightly aft of ideal alignment on both sides by about a tenth of an inch. It wasn’t possible to position the rear bracket further forward to overcome the shortfall, since it was already firmly against the rearward facing factory bolt head on the left side, which helps attach the unitized foot peg/shock link mount crossmember to the engine case. I was able to lay on my back, put a foot against a foot peg to push against while pulling the skid plate towards the front and BARELY get each front screw started without cross threading them. Egging the plate’s forward holes with a rat-tail file just a smidge, eliminates most of that battle, and its countersunk holes help “walk” the plate into optimal position once the screws are fully tightened.

Final issue was minor, and possibly an intentional design feature to ease installation, wherein the plate’s forward holes were nearly a quarter inch further apart than the distance between the Pan America’s respective mounting points. Being mild aluminum, the plate yielded fairly easily as it’s forward mounting screws were cinched down.

Once fitted, I liked it. Not keen on the tedious aspect of getting the rear screws into their floating clip threads, but hey, they do the job!
 

· Registered
2021 Pan America 1250S
Joined
·
18 Posts
Mine went like so;

Attached both rear screws. Then, with a bit of a fight (explained below), attached the front left screw, which left the right front screw approximately 3/4” below where it needed to be to attach. Any effort to force that side of the plate high enough to insert screw was futile. Close inspection revealed the rubber bumper-brick (glued to the top of the plate) was FIRMLY hitting the engine case’s ridges where the two halves meet, as well contacting a pair of the side-to-side screw bosses that join the case halves, each of which protrude down towards the skid plate nearly as far as the case’s center ridges. After Dremeling relief troughs in the rubber brick, the plate was finally able to swing up high enough that both its forward screw holes were the right height, while the unDremeled remainder of the rubber bumper’s upper surface dutifully nestled against the engine case… like Black Dog intended I reckon.

The next issue was the forward plate holes were ever so slightly aft of ideal alignment on both sides by about a tenth of an inch. It wasn’t possible to position the rear bracket further forward to overcome the shortfall, since it was already firmly against the rearward facing factory bolt head on the left side, which helps attach the unitized foot peg/shock link mount crossmember to the engine case. I was able to lay on my back, put a foot against a foot peg to push against while pulling the skid plate towards the front and BARELY get each front screw started without cross threading them. Egging the plate’s forward holes with a rat-tail file just a smidge, eliminates most of that battle, and its countersunk holes help “walk” the plate into optimal position once the screws are fully tightened.

Final issue was minor, and possibly an intentional design feature to ease installation, wherein the plate’s forward holes were nearly a quarter inch further apart than the distance between the Pan America’s respective mounting points. Being mild aluminum, the plate yielded fairly easily as it’s forward mounting screws were cinched down.

Once fitted, I liked it. Not keen on the tedious aspect of getting the rear screws into their floating clip threads, but hey, they do the job!
Sounds like my experience and how I addressed mine. By slotting the holes, solved my issues. I do have the occasion when the side stands is stuck when trying to put down. However, really like the part, and their many decals of a black lad they give you!
 

· Registered
2021 Pan America 1250S
Joined
·
18 Posts
Sounds like my experience and how I addressed mine. By slotting the holes, solved my issues. I do have the occasion when the side stands gets stuck when trying to put down. However, I really like the part, and their many decals of a black lab they give you!
I just pulled mine off, for the first time since installing. I have been putting this off as I did not want to fight putting this plate back on. I pulled skid plate off to access the battery to install a NOCO booster jump start cable to the battery. On my original install I had slotted the screw holes on the bash plate, slightly. This time, as before, I installed with the front two screws loose, barely to the point where they stay in. I lifted the rear and loosely installed the two screws underneath, at the rear. Once all screws were installed, I tightened with no issue. Total install time, less than 10 minutes.
 

· Registered
Chopper, Bagger, Pan Am 😁
Joined
·
10 Posts
I just installed my BDCW skid plate and I too had issues lining up the rear bolt holes even with the 2 front bolts just barely started. I left Kurt at BDCW a message for his recommendation.
While waiting for him to get back to me I took the skid plate off and loosened the center stand bolts which capture the rear mounting bracket for the skid plate. With the rear mounting plate very loose I reinstalled the skid plate front bolts loosely then I removed the blind nuts provided to secure the rear to the mounting plate and I went with a pair of nylock nuts w/flat washers.I used a punch to line up the mounting holes and installed bolts and loosely secured nuts and bolts, then I went back and secured the center stand bolts, then the front mounting bolts and finally secured the rear mounting bolts. All torqued to spec. All Good looks and fits snug and solid.
Kurt returns my call to see how he can help but I got it already and it’s good. 👍

When you remove the stock skid and can flex it by hand you’ll know it’s nothing but a trim piece, not so with the BDCW skid plate, it’s a frame mounted beast ready to take whatever you’re willing to give it with a smooth bottom to slide over what you need to slide over.
Excellent Design!

I ponied up for footpegs after I saw how well designed and fabricated the skid plate is and I’m not disappointed. These pegs are almost 3X the size of OE with good grip and standing up is very solid and comfortable. While costly BDCW products are solid and well constructed, and fabrication quality is as best you could hope for. Buy with confidence. 👍👍
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top