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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Came across this. Expensive for what it is, but would mean I could retain the OE exhaust. Thoughts?

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Came across this. Expensive for what it is, but would mean I could retain the OE exhaust. Thoughts?

Feck it, I've bought one. :cool: Look forward to getting rid of the Euro 5 muffler/resonator, if it sounds shit, I can always take it back off and flog it on eBay. :ROFLMAO:

 

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I'm contacing the following seller quality seems good 155 Euro (with VAT) and free delivery in Italy.


Part will be available form February 22 according the feedback I had.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'm contacing the following seller quality seems good 155 Euro (with VAT) and free delivery in Italy.


Part will be available form February 22 according the feedback I had.
Excellent, well found and thanks for sharing. Unit Garage has shipped my order. I paid £155 inc VAT & shipping was free of charge/included to the UK. (y)
 

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Came across this. Expensive for what it is, but would mean I could retain the OE exhaust. Thoughts?

JUST WHAT I WAS LOOKING FOR !!! :p(y)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
... but quiet expensive too ... o_O
Yes and no, 150 beer tokens is a lot less than a slip on can and I think this combined with the OE can will be a good cost effective option. This is not a decat, the cat is located in the lower front pipe, this is only a resonator/muffler delete and who asked for one of them, no-one! :p
 

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Came across this. Expensive for what it is, but would mean I could retain the OE exhaust. Thoughts?

I ordered the CAT heat shield from the same place. Hoping it ships soon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Okay, fitted the Unit Garage link pipe today. Found this for the SE fitment, which helped,


Couple of brave pils and off we go!

Place bike on side/jiffy stand, make sure it's in gear, so can't roll forward off the stand. Apply release agent to front pipe to resonator connection and leave to work.

Remove split pin and dowl from brake lever master cylinder, free up lever so it's out of the way, shown.

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design Plant Automotive exterior


Remove torx from foot hanger, this creates enough room to move the hanger back far enough to access the top securing bolt of the resonator torx, remove that. Lossen front pipe clamp, apply more WD40 etc, remove rear foot hanger mount for the exhaust can. You then GENTLY, work the system up and down to break the stiction, once free you then lift off the can and resonator as one part. The main stand does get in the way a little, but can be moved forward to allow clearance.

You then split them on the bench, or your favourite armchair in front of the fire. (y)

Automotive exterior Bumper Automotive exhaust Hood Automotive lighting


Bit more release agent on the can to resonator connection and off it comes.

Refit front foot hanger and brake connection. Be careful and replace the front foot hanger carefully, make sure it's all in properly and lined up right, ask a friend to help with the positioning? Before securing torx fixings and nipping up to torque. Replace dowl and split pin in rear brake lever and test all is working including brake light.

Fitting of the can went well, link worked onto front pipe, use more WD40, gently work it all the way forward and fully located, check there's plenty clearance with the swing arm and centre stand, before fitting make sure the clamp is located to give you good access for tightening, but don't tighten. New clamp came for the front pipe connection, OE clamp is reused for link pip to end can. Had bit of an issue with the end can shield fitment. I got it to fit, better to fit the shield at the bolt end and then do the final fitment of the end can. I still have clearance issues though so it's going to need a bit of 'panel beating', until I'm happy with it. TBF, it's not rattling, just doesn't line up quite the same as before. More on this story later. Once your happy everything is sitting pretty, tighten the two clamps and rear hanger.

Motor vehicle Hood Automotive tire Car Automotive design


Run up to test for leaks, notice more improved engine sound, little bit more v-twin bellow of the enjoyable kind. Growl at the shitty exhaust shield and vow to come back to sort it tomorrow, before I get the big hammer oot ! 🍺

At least, that's what I did. Bad light stopped play for today, but hope to road-test tomorrow and give it, some pain, road conditions permitting, natch! :love:
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
How did it work??
It works fine, except I couldn't get the cover to fit back on neatly to the OE can. The OE can is cheap and nasty, so I've gone and bought a Two Brothers link pipe and slip-on can from the US, cheaper to do that than buy from the EU! Will be fitting that shortly and then storing the OE system away so it can go back on the bike if and when the bike is sold on.

I will be selling on the Unit Garage link pipe at some point. I should have gone with Two Brothers first. The TB can sounds at least as good, if not better than Screaming Eagle, and is £300 cheaper.

 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Graphite seals arrived, used one, had to split it in half width ways and that worked to seal/take up the size difference between the link pipe connection to the header. Reused H-D clamp and ran bike up to temp. No leaks and once the smoke had died down from the run-in of the end can wadding, all seemed well. It is much louder than stock, but in a good way. Loud pipes save lives, right?
 

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Okay, fitted the Unit Garage link pipe today. Found this for the SE fitment, which helped,


Couple of brave pils and off we go!

Place bike on side/jiffy stand, make sure it's in gear, so can't roll forward off the stand. Apply release agent to front pipe to resonator connection and leave to work.

Remove split pin and dowl from brake lever master cylinder, free up lever so it's out of the way, shown.

View attachment 649

Remove torx from foot hanger, this creates enough room to move the hanger back far enough to access the top securing bolt of the resonator torx, remove that. Lossen front pipe clamp, apply more WD40 etc, remove rear foot hanger mount for the exhaust can. You then GENTLY, work the system up and down to break the stiction, once free you then lift off the can and resonator as one part. The main stand does get in the way a little, but can be moved forward to allow clearance.

You then split them on the bench, or your favourite armchair in front of the fire. (y)

View attachment 650

Bit more release agent on the can to resonator connection and off it comes.

Refit front foot hanger and brake connection. Be careful and replace the front foot hanger carefully, make sure it's all in properly and lined up right, ask a friend to help with the positioning? Before securing torx fixings and nipping up to torque. Replace dowl and split pin in rear brake lever and test all is working including brake light.

Fitting of the can went well, link worked onto front pipe, use more WD40, gently work it all the way forward and fully located, check there's plenty clearance with the swing arm and centre stand, before fitting make sure the clamp is located to give you good access for tightening, but don't tighten. New clamp came for the front pipe connection, OE clamp is reused for link pip to end can. Had bit of an issue with the end can shield fitment. I got it to fit, better to fit the shield at the bolt end and then do the final fitment of the end can. I still have clearance issues though so it's going to need a bit of 'panel beating', until I'm happy with it. TBF, it's not rattling, just doesn't line up quite the same as before. More on this story later. Once your happy everything is sitting pretty, tighten the two clamps and rear hanger.

View attachment 651

Run up to test for leaks, notice more improved engine sound, little bit more v-twin bellow of the enjoyable kind. Growl at the shitty exhaust shield and vow to come back to sort it tomorrow, before I get the big hammer oot ! 🍺

At least, that's what I did. Bad light stopped play for today, but hope to road-test tomorrow and give it, some pain, road conditions permitting, natch! :love:
I just looked at the Harley instructions for the Screaming Eagle replacement and it doesn't show disconnecting the brake although seems smart to do so. It also doesn't show the center stand at all in the instructions. No problem getting center stand out of the way when footpeg hangers are removed?
 
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