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Sprocket size

7K views 26 replies 10 participants last post by  newinertia 
#1 ·
Has anyone changed the sprocket size/ratio on their P/A.
I would like to have a slower first gear , I don’t need all the top end this bike has. Thanks Ralph
 
#6 ·
OK FOLKS! I have made a drawing of my rear 48 tooth and all the dimensions have been digitized and sent to Sprocket Specialists to be made in several different tooth counts! I have ordered a +6 54 tooth and a -6 42 tooth for the highway.
If you are interested, Lance @ sprocketspecialists . com is his email. Hardened aluminum is what I went with.
 
#13 · (Edited)
Friday I received my 40 tooth sprocket from Sprocket Specialists. First thing Saturday morning I went to the shop and pulled out one of the previously mentioned fresh chains off the shelf and got all the tools ready to change the rear sprocket and cut the new chain to the correct length. I wanted to loosely report on the time it takes to do this job. I started the job while holding a fresh mug of French roast coffee at exactly 0900 hours. I put the 2022 P.A.S. on its pivoting levitation device with very little effort due to the fact that it is always ridden in a mode that makes it very challenging to reach the ground. I went to the toolbox and withdrew my trusty 1/2 inch drive 36 mm 12 point socket that was lovingly crafted by Craftsman tools, (we fought many a battle together) and set about releasing the axle bolt from the 100 ft/lb grip of that tyrannical nuts' grasp. With a medium dead blow hammer (orange) I gave the hollow axle bolt a love tap to free it from it's forced servitude that it has had to endure since it's deployment in the great battle of the 56 tooth sprocket. It came out unscathed, however there was a crusty layer of corrosion that had built up, doubling the friction from the last time this soldier was extracted. Upon seeing the poor condition of the little guy, I made haste to the 8 inch bench grinder tenderly referred to as "ol'sparky" and used his stainless steel wire wheel to make the surface like new again- and treated it to a good dose of ACF-50 anti-corrosion treatment. As the wheel assembly was now freed from the controlling grasp of the swingarm, I rotated the wheel assembly 90 degrees with great verve and leaned it up against the aft end of the chain adjusters with sprocket side out so that I may access the five 10 mm fasteners that transmit all that power to the ground. Loosening first with a socket- then moving to a cordless driver is a good idea for the sake of time. I removed the 56 tooth sprocket and immediately set about re-installing the 40 tooth. I fastened the bolts to a minimum 55 ft/lbs with the greatest of care not to cross thread or mis-align anything as this would cause catastrophic damage.
I now am at the moment of reinstalling. Carefully centering the wheel between the arms, then bringing up the brake caliper assembly's female slot to the male casting boss on the inner right arm, then inserting the axle bolt first thru the left chain adjuster, left swingarm, 2" spacer, cush drive hub, wheel, speed sensor, and caliper mount, right swingarm, right chain adjuster, washer, nut and finally E-clip. Leave everything loose, and chain adjuster nuts should be backed out so no threads are showing, as the wheel is in the furthest foreward position. Carefully thread the new master-link style chain from the rear over the top of the rear sprocket foreward thru the hollow channel in the swingarm, and it will poke out of the chainguard, grab it and roll it around the front sprocket (neutral) and feed it back to the rear sprocket while pulling all the slack out. mark length of inner links where they come together, and cut the outside link that is excess. Install new master link (3" c-clamp and 1/4" nut method) and tighten chain counting equal threads on chain adjusters then tighten axle nut to 100 ft/lbs.
This job took 15 minutes. 40 tooth sprocket has transformed the riding experience in a much more road friendly experience. I am cruising 90 mph turning 4500 rpm at all day comfort. Each of my 3 sprockets (40, 48, 56) have dedicated chains so I can change them in 5 minutes flat.
 
#15 · (Edited)
Hi Snowdog-
Not slippage, just a less sharp engagement. Almost like putting on a longer clutch shaft arm at the crankcase end. At 43 teeth I doubt you will notice much difference. I am extremely happy with the highway results, it pulls long and steady in 4,5,6 rather than rip, shift, rip, shift, rip, shift!
With stock gearing I was getting close (5500) to peak torque (6750) at 90 mph, leaving very little in the top end for a serious blast. Please understand I do not rev past 7000 rpm's- ever! (mechanical abuse) Now that I moved the rpm's back to 4500 at 90 mph there is almost no stress on the engine, and gas mileage will majorly increase at 78 mph touring speed. For the others, here is what we are going off of: 40 tooth-

Font Rectangle Line Material property Parallel
 
#18 ·
Just to update, I installed my 43-tooth rear sprocket. Easy job, thanks to newinertia. removed two teeth from the chain, and all good. Personally, I would not go any taller than 43, and perhaps 44 would be ideal. 1st is a bit tall, and requires some clutch slippage. Once at speed, the ratios are great and at speed, it's like you have one more gear, so that 5th is the old 6th.
 
#19 ·
After 2 weeks of riding with it you won't even notice the clutch difference anymore. With my 40 tooth I am lifting the front wheel leaving stoplights without trying. Clutches are cheap and easy to replace even if it doesn't last as long, but
I doubt that will be the case. If You put heavier springs in the clutch, it will feel crisp again.
 
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