[Dirtglide]

Operation 'be cool honey bunny', has commenced.

Link below to where the battery was sourced from for you fellow UK owners.

MBYZ16HD - Motobatt AGM Motorcycle Battery 12V 16Ah

The coolant is of the OAT (organic acid technology) variety, pink long-life stuff. I prefer the blue as 'pink' is for girls, but hey, Harley know best. 🇺🇲

Had to leave the bike for now to go BBQ shopping for tomorrow, daughter's B-Day, but will go back up later and throw it all together and run a few heat cycles to get the coolant flowing and try and get the level bob on. Hope it starts!

 

[Dirtglide]

Back at the bike, whomever 'designed', I use that term loosely, the regulator bracket should be shot, pain in the arse to remove and refit, anyway. The new battery was fitted and as per the chap that fitted the hybrid battery, I had to remove two of the foam spacers at the front of the battery box to ensure the very short positive terminal reached and could be secured correctly. I really don't like the tiny allen bolts Motobatt supply and they're not long enough, so re-used the standard issue battery bolts, job jobbed. ☮

Then went to start the bike - no won't start - immobilsed! Not detecting the FOB. Thinks it's being stolen; I'll leave it and go do something else - degreased the Camel ADV sump guard. Went back to it and at the second attempt, I heard the joy that is the fuel pump kicking in. Fired the bike up and ran it right up till when the cooling fan kicks in which I'd thought would be around 210f. No, runs right up to 220f (104c) before it kicks in and then it stays on until it has dropped to 203f (95c). That's pretty standard and it was the old fashioned pounds shilling and pence measurement which made me doubt it.

As for the new battery, very early days, but the bike seems to turn over a wee bit faster before bursting into v-twin lovelyness. I'm just gonna run the bastard and give it damn good thrashing next time I have a spare day. More on that story, later.....

 

[Dirtglide]

Okay, so there was the now famous erroneous errors from the electronics, I had the full set! Engine management, mode error and trangle of doom! What I do is delete all of them which resets things and then, the bike fired up easy and seems to be running really sweetly. I did add this to the petrol/gas tank. Cause I loves ma Harley.... 🆒

All thrown back together, Camel ADV sump guard still to be refitted. BBQ stops play for today.

 

[tman2010]

Given so many folks have indicated the Antigravity ATX-12-HD Re-Start battery solved their issues (i.e. starting, random fault codes, etc.) I decided to give one a try.
ATX12-HD-RS Lithium Motorsport Battery

Regarding the installation:
When connecting the cables the posts on the battery could have been just a tad higher. Meaning, I had to push up on the bottom of the battery a little to get a socket on the screw to tighten the cable on the negative post. I suppose I could remove the three foam strips in the bottom of the battery compartment and replace them with something a little thicker.

Test completed after installation:
After installing the fully charged ATX-12-HD Re-Start battery I started my bike five times. For each start I measured the voltage on the battery with the ignition off, with the ignition on - after the TFT settled down and the minimum voltage (using the MAX/MIN feature on my voltmeter) when pressing the start button. For example: For my first start voltage on the battery with the ignition off was 13.35v, the voltage on the battery with the ignition on was 13.12v and the minimum voltage on the battery was 8.07v when pressing the start button. I waited two minutes between each start. My results were:
Start1: 13.35v, 13.12v, 8.07v
Start2: 13.43v, 13.23v, 9.17v
Start3: 13.40v, 13.24v, 11.31v
Start4: 13.39v, 13.23v, 10.94v
Start5: 13.39v, 13.22v, 11.41v
For each of the starts above my bike started on the first attempt with no fault codes. Although, starts 1 & 2 were a little slower than the other starts. As you can see for starts 1 & 2 the voltage dropped fairly low (8.07v & 9.17v) when pressing the start button. The start button was not being held down. Given my bike started when the voltage dropped too low I'm guessing the Antigravity battery may have enough cranking power to plow through it. I think my bike (and maybe many others) may have some underlying issue that is causing the voltage to drop too low sometimes when starting.

First ride after installation:
I took my bike out for a ride (approx. 100 miles). When leaving for my ride my bike started on the first attempt with no fault codes. While watching the TFT screen I did not notice a low voltage reading. During my ride I purposely stopped 3 or 4 times just so I could see what happened when I pressed the start button. Each time my bike started OK with no fault codes (and I did not notice any low voltage readings on the TFT). While riding the voltage reading on the TFT was alternating between 14.1v & 14.2v. Approximately 80 miles into my ride I got the dreaded triangle and ARH was stuck in the high position. After a short time the bike cleared the fault itself but I stopped so I could see which fault code it was. Since the fault cleared itself it was a historical code by the time I could see it (BCM=C181014H - Front preload piston position circuit shorted to ground/open).

Some folks think these random fault codes are the result of s/w issues. I didn't start seeing start issues or any ARH related fault codes until the s/w was updated on my bike a few weeks ago when I took it for the two recalls (handrail & infotainment s/w). I guess time will tell to see how the Antigravity battery performs. I will be scheduling my 5K service soon so I will be bringing these issues up with my dealer. Although for my 5K service:

• Not sure if I want to request any s/w updates.
• I am debating whether or not I should re-install the OEM battery before I take my bike in for the 5K service. I don’t want HD to point the finger at the Antigravity battery.

For other folks they may have installed a non-HD battery: Do you put the OEM battery back in before you take it in for service?

Thanks!
2021 Pan America Special w/ARH Deadwood Green

 

[Dirtglide]

I'm not taking that battery out again unless it fails, unlikely, or someone pays me. Highly unlikely. If HD ask why you changed the battery? Unlikely, tell them it's because their's is shit. Yes really.

 

[roadrash83]

I had to replace the stock battery 13 months old. It was off the tender for 4 day while I did the 5000mi service and pulled the tank for the driving light harness install and other crap. I pulled the main fuse and I should have put the battery on the charger, but didn't think about it. One thing I have to remember is I live in southern Florida and the heat kills batteries. Put the stock HD battery in because it was Sunday and the T-Shirt store was open and I wanted the bike off the lift. The battery was $145.00 plus tax, didn't even ask about the Lithium battery because I have seen a the aftermath of those when they fail.

 

[Dirtglide]

FOB issue, FOB not being detected, was FOB battery needing replaced in the FOB. Turns out it's a watch type battery, which was replaced at a cost of £4. Works first time everytime once more. Bike also fired up first time too so the new battery is definately better than HDs and worth the time money and hassle replacing. Case closed. ☮

 

[RTWStare]

Thumbs up for the Antigravity ATX12-HD-RS.
Weighs almost exactly 8 lbs less. Starts with authority. Dash voltage reads 12.5 ‘ish volts when cranking. Experiences MUCH slower voltage drop when fiddling with accessory mode while motor is off. Holds charge better while off battery tender.

 

[Tobba611]

Given so many folks have indicated the Antigravity ATX-12-HD Re-Start battery solved their issues (i.e. starting, random fault codes, etc.) I decided to give one a try.
ATX12-HD-RS Lithium Motorsport Battery

Regarding the installation:
When connecting the cables the posts on the battery could have been just a tad higher. Meaning, I had to push up on the bottom of the battery a little to get a socket on the screw to tighten the cable on the negative post. I suppose I could remove the three foam strips in the bottom of the battery compartment and replace them with something a little thicker.

Test completed after installation:
After installing the fully charged ATX-12-HD Re-Start battery I started my bike five times. For each start I measured the voltage on the battery with the ignition off, with the ignition on - after the TFT settled down and the minimum voltage (using the MAX/MIN feature on my voltmeter) when pressing the start button. For example: For my first start voltage on the battery with the ignition off was 13.35v, the voltage on the battery with the ignition on was 13.12v and the minimum voltage on the battery was 8.07v when pressing the start button. I waited two minutes between each start. My results were:
Start1: 13.35v, 13.12v, 8.07v
Start2: 13.43v, 13.23v, 9.17v
Start3: 13.40v, 13.24v, 11.31v
Start4: 13.39v, 13.23v, 10.94v
Start5: 13.39v, 13.22v, 11.41v
For each of the starts above my bike started on the first attempt with no fault codes. Although, starts 1 & 2 were a little slower than the other starts. As you can see for starts 1 & 2 the voltage dropped fairly low (8.07v & 9.17v) when pressing the start button. The start button was not being held down. Given my bike started when the voltage dropped too low I'm guessing the Antigravity battery may have enough cranking power to plow through it. I think my bike (and maybe many others) may have some underlying issue that is causing the voltage to drop too low sometimes when starting.

First ride after installation:
I took my bike out for a ride (approx. 100 miles). When leaving for my ride my bike started on the first attempt with no fault codes. While watching the TFT screen I did not notice a low voltage reading. During my ride I purposely stopped 3 or 4 times just so I could see what happened when I pressed the start button. Each time my bike started OK with no fault codes (and I did not notice any low voltage readings on the TFT). While riding the voltage reading on the TFT was alternating between 14.1v & 14.2v. Approximately 80 miles into my ride I got the dreaded triangle and ARH was stuck in the high position. After a short time the bike cleared the fault itself but I stopped so I could see which fault code it was. Since the fault cleared itself it was a historical code by the time I could see it (BCM=C181014H - Front preload piston position circuit shorted to ground/open).

Some folks think these random fault codes are the result of s/w issues. I didn't start seeing start issues or any ARH related fault codes until the s/w was updated on my bike a few weeks ago when I took it for the two recalls (handrail & infotainment s/w). I guess time will tell to see how the Antigravity battery performs. I will be scheduling my 5K service soon so I will be bringing these issues up with my dealer. Although for my 5K service:

• Not sure if I want to request any s/w updates.
• I am debating whether or not I should re-install the OEM battery before I take my bike in for the 5K service. I don’t want HD to point the finger at the Antigravity battery.

For other folks they may have installed a non-HD battery: Do you put the OEM battery back in before you take it in for service?

Thanks!
2021 Pan America Special w/ARH Deadwood Green

Thanks for the detail! This thread inspired me to install the Antigravity battery as well. My PA has always had starting issues anytime the bike sat for more than a couple of days or if I turned it on in accessory mode for more than a couple of minutes. My test results are very similar to yours. Regarding the installation, the positive cable was a bit of a pain. The OEM Harley battery terminal is flush with the outer edge of the battery. The terminal on the Antigravity battery is set back about .115. Since the battery cable is routed through a valley, it could only connect at and angle. I was temped to just snug it down and make it touch. Instead, I bought a length of 1/2" wide by .125 thick stainless steel plate and made a spacer.

So far, the battery is great! Thanks!

 

[Dirtglide]

More ramblings... Have noticed that since I swapped out the HD battery to the Motobatt, I can and have left the bike for 3-weeks+ and when asked to start it does. It wouldn't do that on the HD battery, it would fail and need charged first. Also noticed that when I do connect it up to my 5amp charger, it very quickly within mins shows full charge, the HD battery would charge for an hour or more before showing full. My conclusion is that the replacement Motobatt battery is a better quality battery, more reliable and therefore worth the modest outlay. Nothing worse than a bike that won't start.

 

[ODGreenPA]

More ramblings... Have noticed that since I swapped out the HD battery to the Motobatt, I can and have left the bike for 3-weeks+ and when asked to start it does. It wouldn't do that on the HD battery, it would fail and need charged first. Also noticed that when I do connect it up to my 5amp charger, it very quickly within mins shows full charge, the HD battery would charge for an hour or more before showing full. My conclusion is that the replacement Motobatt battery is a better quality battery, more reliable and therefore worth the modest outlay. Nothing worse than a bike that won't start.

Here comes a jinx!

I'll probably take your recommendation and buy one when needed. So here it goes, I must have one of the best built PAs as I've said in other posts I haven't had any issues and my battery is pretty good too. I recently went on a trip and when got home I left her parked outside (night temps in 40s) under carport and next thing I know just over a week has passed and I haven't touched it. Well it started right up so I moved to garage and put charger on as it'll be awhile before next ride.

 

[JJG419]

I have recharged the fecker several times now and yet after not being used for a couple of weeks and doing accessory testing - it failed to start the bike. It did after being on charge, but feck me, it's borderline capable OEM 💩

I agree 100%!!

 

[ABZ Pan]

My new to me 2021 PAS was delivered last week and the battery is completely dead so I’m guessing the delivery folk didn’t put it in transport mode and drained the battery. I am out of the country so I got my wife to plug in my battery tender but it’s showing a reversed polarity warning. I can’t believe the factory tender cable has been installed incorrectly and my tender has worked on all my other bikes so I’m guessing the battery is fried. Any thoughts?

 

[Kurlon]

The tender lead is part of the main harness so it's not like an add on where you can accidentally wire it to the wrong terminals of the battery. I suspect you're correct that the batt is in trouble.

 

[Florida Pan]

I did measure the voltage with a multimeter prior to installing it. Battery was fully charged on a tender prior. Voltage showed 13.65v.

Hello CrewDawg, how is the Anti-gravity battery working out? I am thinking about getting one.
Thanks,
Tom

 

[CrewDawg]

Hello CrewDawg, how is the Anti-gravity battery working out? I am thinking about getting one.
Thanks,
Tom

So far, no issues. I do need to get my BCM updated at some point so I can upgrade the Infotainment system to the latest software. Evidently my BCM version is too old for the last 2 updates that have come out. Probably won't get that done until this spring. Haven't been able to ride the last few weeks due to snow. A lot of the roads around here have had snow pack/ice on them that aren't melting very quick.

 

[Florida Pan]

So far, no issues. I do need to get my BCM updated at some point so I can upgrade the Infotainment system to the latest software. Evidently my BCM version is too old for the last 2 updates that have come out. Probably won't get that done until this spring. Haven't been able to ride the last few weeks due to snow. A lot of the roads around here have had snow pack/ice on them that aren't melting very quick.

Thanks for the update.
Cheers,
Tom

 

[Dirtglide]

Replacement battery fitted, MBYZ16HD AGM continues to put in a shift. Bike has stood for weeks now, sadly, and with a quick recharge on the 5amp smart charger, from standing 12.6V, which only takes around 20 mins at most, it's reading north of 14v again without draw. The HD battery it replaced would have been a dead loss, flat, unless left permanently connected and on trickle charger.

It is a good cost effective upgrade and comes without the complication of fitting a non OEM lithium type, don't know where you'd stand with UK insurance for declaring that modification from standard? Run away....

 

[Nimda]

@CrewDawg Quick question for you. i’ve just got the same Antigravity battery you have, been having a few random errors after bike left over winter. Do you keep the battery on a battery tender, and if so do you connect via the Pan’s charging socket or have you added one connected directly to the battery.

Just thought of another question. Will the remote restart work through the Pan’s factory fitted charging socket. Or will it need direct connection to the battery.

Thanks in advance.

 

[CrewDawg]

I bought a tender from Antigravity when I bought the battery and keep it on the tender using the factory connection. I'm not sure about using the remote restart through the factory connector. I bought the wireless remote and the Antigravity jump start connector in case I ever need to jump it without having to remove the skid.