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Pan america won't start

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32K views 30 replies 13 participants last post by  leroysch  
#1 ·
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I stopped for gas after leaving work, about 2.5 miles to the gas station. Shut off bike, fill tank with gas. Then go to start bike, the start button does nothing? Turn back off and on, still nothing! Then I check diagnostics page, I've got a bunch of ecm codes, that I can not clear? So I push bike away from pump, call my wife to bring the truck and trailer. After a few minutes I decided to try it one more time, what do you know, it started right up? Any one else having similar issues?
 
#2 ·
View attachment 82 View attachment 82 I stopped for gas after leaving work, about 2.5 miles to the gas station. Shut off bike, fill tank with gas. Then go to start bike, the start button does nothing? Turn back off and on, still nothing! Then I check diagnostics page, I've got a bunch of ecm codes, that I can not clear? So I push bike away from pump, call my wife to bring the truck and trailer. After a few minutes I decided to try it one more time, what do you know, it started right up? Any one else having similar issues?
 
#30 ·
yes, had same issue, so did a tech at my local Harley dealer. Cure, (so far) is to hit the starter button and release quickly. Don't hold the button down until it starts. I can't explain it, but it works. I've had no problems starting the bike in the last three weeks.
ead, post: 325, member: 109"]
View attachment 82 View attachment 82 I stopped for gas after leaving work, about 2.5 miles to the gas station. Shut off bike, fill tank with gas. Then go to start bike, the start button does nothing? Turn back off and on, still nothing! Then I check diagnostics page, I've got a bunch of ecm codes, that I can not clear? So I push bike away from pump, call my wife to bring the truck and trailer. After a few minutes I decided to try it one more time, what do you know, it started right up? Any one else having similar issues?
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Thanks for the hint, I hit the start button short and it started (y)(y):)
 
#25 ·
Greetings ,
it's a real horror when the engine stalls , for what reason so ever , in heavy traffic while you're lane-splittin' and there's no way to re-start it immediately while you're trying to reach the roadside between trucks & cars passing you by both sides and your speed is rapidly slowing down to zero . :eek:🥶 I've had all the latest reflashes (ECM 3x , BCM 3x , EHCU 2x , LHCM & RHCM , recall 0631) . I've noticed improvement but still when the engine is really at cold temperature , it' starts but tempts to stall (doesn't) and then sets a few DTC's . There's still a lot of work to do on the electronics management ...
All the rest performs great . 😏
 
#6 ·
Had the same thing happen yesterday. After seeing that they are all ECU codes, I unplugged my iPhone cord from the USB port and then it started up (no idea if that was the issue though). I rode the bike another 12 miles and all the codes changed to ending in H (historical), cleared them all, and then put another 20 miles on without any reoccurring fault codes.
 

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#8 ·
Probably battery related as it did start when left for long enough for the battery voltage to recover. Manual says recharge battery every two weeks when not ridden daily. The trouble with keyless ignitions is that it's always searching for the key and that uses power.

Judicious use of the "transport mode" will help when the bike is idle, not just actually when being transported.

 
#12 ·
Probably battery related as it did start when left for long enough for the battery voltage to recover. Manual says recharge battery every two weeks when not ridden daily. The trouble with keyless ignitions is that it's always searching for the key and that uses power.

Judicious use of the "transport mode" will help when the bike is idle, not just actually when being transported.

The low battery power is not what caused my problems. the bike lives on a battery tend when not being ridden. I have not had the problem since, the bike did go to the dealer for a new flash after the problem. I have read on a few sites that this is a known problem.
 
#10 ·
For winter storage, I'd remove the battery altogether, bench charge the battery and store it away somewhere safe. Not so easy on the PA, due to the battery location, but still, not that hard. Alternative is just to remove the negative terminal on the battery, but again, if you're going in there - you might as well have the bastid out altogether.

Fair play to H-D. They have fitted a battery maintainer/charger connector; but the risk with those is that depending on the charger? you can also fook the battery by being on charge all the time which batteries don't like.

I connected mine up to my 6amp charger yesterday to check it works and recharged the battery to full - reading 14.5v no load. 🤟
 
#16 · (Edited)
Just a note about the clearing of DTC codes. As and when your bike reaches the dealer, those stored codes will assist them in pin pointing where any fault stemmed from. If you want to help and help yourself, get kitted up with the correct equipment to connect to the bikes diagnostic port. I've done that for previous bikes for a few pounds and been able to establish what the codes relate to and delete/clear erroneous DTCs; once I'm fairly certain they are indeed erroneous and non-recurring.

I think the fact you can dial into these from the bike settings will cause more worry from owners than provide assitance. The code without any information on what it relates to is pretty useless by itself, Harley...

I will be ordering one of these - Harley Davidson/Buell OBD2 6 Pin Plug Adaptor Cable - Lonelec

And plugging that into a obd2 bluetooth adapter that I already own for a more educated approach to fault diagnosis.... WCPGW

P.S. Has anyone said it's probably the battery. :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO:

Dirtglide.🦆
 
#18 ·
Just a note about the clearing of DTC codes. As and when your bike reaches the dealer, those stored codes will assist them in pin pointing where any fault stemmed from. If you want to help and help yourself, get kitted up with the correct equipment to connect to the bikes diagnostic port. I've done that for previous bikes for a few pounds and been able to establish what the codes relate to and delete/clear erroneous DTCs; once I'm fairly certain they are indeed erroneous and non-recurring.

I think the fact you can dial into these from the bike settings will cause more worry from owners than provide assitance. The code without any information on what it relates to is pretty useless by itself, Harley...

I will be ordering one of these - Harley Davidson/Buell OBD2 6 Pin Plug Adaptor Cable - Lonelec

And plugging that into a obd2 bluetooth adapter that I already own for a more educated approach to fault diagnosis.... WCPGW

P.S. Has anyone said it's probably the battery. :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO:

Dirtglide.🦆
Hi DG Do you know whether I can use my gs 911 tool with an appropriate lead. I ask because it is advertised as being able to be used on a BMW / Harley.
 
#19 ·
Houston, we have a problem.....

The supplied diagnostic cable and connector is way too large. I'm going to have to go back to the supplier and see what they can do. The red plug is I'm almost certain the diagnostic connector for the bike. It's located in front of the DC heated clothing connectors and plugs into a blank holder to keep moisture and dirt out.

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#24 ·
It did it again.
But what i remember, is that i turned it on and instantly I pushed the start Button. May be this causes the Problem.
Anyway after a few minutes the PSA started as usual. I went home for arround 45 km. During the ride it fellt okay but
In the Display was that gearbox sign.
In the Garage i tryed to delete the dtc and it works.
Starting as usual and the gearbox sign was off.
Strange, HD has to solve that behaviour.
.
 
#26 ·
It did it again.
But what i remember, is that i turned it on and instantly I pushed the start Button. May be this causes the Problem.
Anyway after a few minutes the PSA started as usual. I went home for arround 45 km. During the ride it fellt okay but
In the Display was that gearbox sign.
In the Garage i tryed to delete the dtc and it works.
Starting as usual and the gearbox sign was off.
Strange, HD has to solve that behaviour.
.
ALWAYS WAIT (4sec) FOR STARTUP SCREEN TO END IT'S WOW-TEST . this is the time the electronic system takes for reading all parameters and set itself right for starting . Then start by just puching the start button without any other (throttle grip) manipulation to avoid system fault calculation . 😏
 
#31 ·
IIRC, the owner's manual mentions a tap of the starter button initiates a 5-10sec cranking regimen not requiring the starter button to remain depressed. Easy to miss since it's mentioned in the "how to start the bike" section...and who needs to read that?
 
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