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Discussion starter · #21 ·
I just looked at the Harley instructions for the Screaming Eagle replacement and it doesn't show disconnecting the brake although seems smart to do so. It also doesn't show the center stand at all in the instructions. No problem getting center stand out of the way when footpeg hangers are removed?
Just need to create enough space to get at resonator mounting bolt, which is located behind footpeg hanger, don't need to remove footpegs or centre stand, remove resonator with the bike on side stand so that centre stand is folded up and out of the way. Disconnecting the brake means the hanger can be move enough to gain access to the resonator bolt.
 
I just looked at the Harley instructions for the Screaming Eagle replacement and it doesn't show disconnecting the brake although seems smart to do so. It also doesn't show the center stand at all in the instructions. No problem getting center stand out of the way when footpeg hangers are removed?
I didn't take the brake off, just the 2 bolts holding the bracket on and pushed it out of the way enough to remove the bolt. . Be careful putting the top bolt back in though, I had to push down and up on the center stand leg to get the holes to align back up
 
I didn't take the brake off, just the 2 bolts holding the bracket on and pushed it out of the way enough to remove the bolt. . Be careful putting the top bolt back in though, I had to push down and up on the center stand leg to get the holes to align back up
I figured this out but also pulled the screw to drop the rear brake reservoir because the line looked pretty tight and I thought I might pull it out. Harley instructions are useless, didn't even show center stand at all.
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
Graphite seals arrived, used one, had to split it in half width ways and that worked to seal/take up the size difference between the link pipe connection to the header. Reused H-D clamp and ran bike up to temp. No leaks and once the smoke had died down from the run-in of the end can wadding, all seemed well. It is much louder than stock, but in a good way. Loud pipes save lives, right?
Worth noting, Two Brothers: S1R Slip-On System 005-5380409-B

- NEVER dyno test your bike with carbon fiber or titanium canisters installed - the intense heat and lack of cooling air can quickly burn through the canister material. Two Brothers Racing does not provide a warranty for burned canisters.

From the instructions - HD Pan America (21+) S1R Slip-On System 005-5380409-B

Eh? I think, I want to put that to the test... :love:
 
Came across this. Expensive for what it is, but would mean I could retain the OE exhaust. Thoughts?

Hi, I’m interested in the same product;) could you send me a short sound test please?how does it sound with the stock exhaust? Thx Dan
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
Hi, I’m interested in the same product;) could you send me a short sound test please?how does it sound with the stock exhaust? Thx Dan
Chap, I don't have any audio, sorry. For getting rid of the Euro5 resonator, it's worth it. The bike sounds better and is lighter and might even breathe a little better without it. I had slight and they were slight fitment issues between the link pipe and the OE can. Rather than do anything about that, I went for the 2Bros cat back system which is a whole other ball game and still makes me jump sometimes when the bike, fires up! 🆒

I have the part you're considering and it is for sale - make me an offer in UK pounds and you pay the shipping, I might just accept. I'm keeping the stock exhaust, just in case I chop it in for a Tesla! 😕 Not likely! 🇺🇲
 
I figured this out but also pulled the screw to drop the rear brake reservoir because the line looked pretty tight and I thought I might pull it out. Harley instructions are useless, didn't even show center stand at all.
Chap, I don't have any audio, sorry. For getting rid of the Euro5 resonator, it's worth it. The bike sounds better and is lighter and might even breathe a little better without it. I had slight and they were slight fitment issues between the link pipe and the OE can. Rather than do anything about that, I went for the 2Bros cat back system which is a whole other ball game and still makes me jump sometimes when the bike, fires up! 🆒

I have the part you're considering and it is for sale - make me an offer in UK pounds and you pay the shipping, I might just accept. I'm keeping the stock exhaust, just in case I chop it in for a Tesla! 😕 Not likely! 🇺🇲
thanks for the offer👍 I prefer to use some coplete exhaust system (as 2Brts ..) too. But I’m still not decided which one.
So maybe the pipe could be temporary solution. I’ll think about it and let you know soon. And what about the fitment issues, does it mean some milling cutter or spetial tools works?
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
thanks for the offer👍 I prefer to use some coplete exhaust system (as 2Brts ..) too. But I’m still not decided which one.
So maybe the pipe could be temporary solution. I’ll think about it and let you know soon. And what about the fitment issues, does it mean some milling cutter or spetial tools works?
It was making the OE end can fit neatly onto the link pipe, I couldn't get them to line up sweetly. It worked, but I had to leave the silly and cheap cover which fits between the link pipe and OE can off, which showed the OE can up for the cheaply made thing it is. It and the resonator remind me of a Nissan Micra type car exhaust which shouldn't be seen, just more cheaply made than even a Datsun.
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
Was wondering, if you remove the compensator and add an exhaust if it throws off the fuel mapping? Any negative issues that would require it to be tuned?
Unlikely, if it does, it will likely run slightly richer as it's more free flowing, without restriction. Euro 5 BS. The result of my removing the OE muffler and end can is a much more characterful sound from that lovely big v-twin motor; performance remains, adequate. :cool:

I have the Two Bros end can which is as free flowing as it gets. 🇺🇲
 
Okay, fitted the Unit Garage link pipe today. Found this for the SE fitment, which helped,


Couple of brave pils and off we go!

Place bike on side/jiffy stand, make sure it's in gear, so can't roll forward off the stand. Apply release agent to front pipe to resonator connection and leave to work.

Remove split pin and dowl from brake lever master cylinder, free up lever so it's out of the way, shown.

View attachment 649

Remove torx from foot hanger, this creates enough room to move the hanger back far enough to access the top securing bolt of the resonator torx, remove that. Lossen front pipe clamp, apply more WD40 etc, remove rear foot hanger mount for the exhaust can. You then GENTLY, work the system up and down to break the stiction, once free you then lift off the can and resonator as one part. The main stand does get in the way a little, but can be moved forward to allow clearance.

You then split them on the bench, or your favourite armchair in front of the fire. (y)

View attachment 650

Bit more release agent on the can to resonator connection and off it comes.

Refit front foot hanger and brake connection. Be careful and replace the front foot hanger carefully, make sure it's all in properly and lined up right, ask a friend to help with the positioning? Before securing torx fixings and nipping up to torque. Replace dowl and split pin in rear brake lever and test all is working including brake light.

Fitting of the can went well, link worked onto front pipe, use more WD40, gently work it all the way forward and fully located, check there's plenty clearance with the swing arm and centre stand, before fitting make sure the clamp is located to give you good access for tightening, but don't tighten. New clamp came for the front pipe connection, OE clamp is reused for link pip to end can. Had bit of an issue with the end can shield fitment. I got it to fit, better to fit the shield at the bolt end and then do the final fitment of the end can. I still have clearance issues though so it's going to need a bit of 'panel beating', until I'm happy with it. TBF, it's not rattling, just doesn't line up quite the same as before. More on this story later. Once your happy everything is sitting pretty, tighten the two clamps and rear hanger.

View attachment 651

Run up to test for leaks, notice more improved engine sound, little bit more v-twin bellow of the enjoyable kind. Growl at the shitty exhaust shield and vow to come back to sort it tomorrow, before I get the big hammer oot ! 🍺

At least, that's what I did. Bad light stopped play for today, but hope to road-test tomorrow and give it, some pain, road conditions permitting, natch! :love:
I've tried to access the link, but no HD account, any other way to get the link pipe?
 
I'm contacing the following seller quality seems good 155 Euro (with VAT) and free delivery in Italy.


Part will be available form February 22 according the feedback I had.
Hi Ciri

Did you get the delete pipe. And if so how was the fitting, are you happy with it.
 
If you are considering removing the Euro 5 muffler/resonator, make sure you are comfortable with a bit of trial and error. Using a link pipe like the one in the unit garage worked well but required some patience to fit properly. The stock setup might not perfectly align after the mod, so be prepared for minor adjustments. If it doesn’t work out, you can always revert to the stock setup or try a different exhaust system.
 
Graphite seals arrived, used one, had to split it in half width ways and that worked to seal/take up the size difference between the link pipe connection to the header. Reused H-D clamp and ran bike up to temp. No leaks and once the smoke had died down from the run-in of the end can wadding, all seemed well. It is much louder than stock, but in a good way. Loud pipes save lives, right?
Uuuuh, loud pipes save lives? I don't think so. But nice excuse to make a lot of noise.

Has anyone found a replacement exhaust system with a smaller muffler, gets rid of the resonator box, and is quiet like the stock exhaust? The Pazoma I bought is great for looks and weigh reduction but is too loud. I put a DB Killer in in which quieted it down nicely but the power goes flat in the 5-6,000rpm range in Sport mode. So I assume it has too much restriction.
 
Came across this. Expensive for what it is, but would mean I could retain the OE exhaust. Thoughts?

I replaced my resonator with a mid pipe I bought for $92 and retained stock slip on. Gives bike a throaty sound without being too loud.
 
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