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What have you done to your Pan America today ? ? ?

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#241 ·
El Kabong said:
Thank you so much Fourseasons.
I have a Russel Day Long for my BMW K16 and it is very conftable but from what I saw, the RDL is uggly on a PA. Also, the RDL is very expensive. But considering I spend 3+ hours between breaks, I feel like I wouldn't have the choice. Especialy since my wife doesn't like the PA seat but like the BMW seat. My wife must be comfortable because I love the PA and I want to sell the BMW. It is a fantastic bike for touring but the PA has nothing to envy.

Thank you for your honest review. I think I owe you a beer (alcoholic or not) since you save me an expense :)
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Haha I hope to take you up on that drink someday! Yes I must agree, much of my build has had my wife in mind as she was used to my 15 street glide that she really enjoyed putting miles on as a passenger. I can't say that she's as comfortable as she was on the SG because she just said the other day "Id like to get another bagger someday for our long trips" I didn't have much to say in return
 
#242 ·
So...I took the stock seat, and just for fun, put it on top of the high mount. No more "ball smash", no sliding forward, way more comfortable than the stock 2 settings.
Im doing some more mods and looking for a better option.
 
#245 ·
MarcS said:
All kinds!!! 🤣
The levers on this bike are big, and getting everything to work together was tricky. I had to clearance the bar on the right side just a bit to clear the adjustment knob on the brake lever. It's best to loosen your levers and let the drop down and start playing around.
One fun fact, the bar ends are threaded, so once you've managed to squeeze in the expanding plug for the Acerbis, it's pretty much in there forever......
(And good call, those are the X Factor)
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I bought a pair and after spending a couple of hours trying to make them fit I have come to the conclusion that there's no way they will ever fit.
I'll have to trim off the ball ends to even make them come close to fitting, and even then it's kind of iffy.
When you say "clearance", do you mean you cut off a 1/4 inch or so off the bar end?
Even then I don't know how they fit, by the time I move the lever perch enough to clear the lever / guard I don't have any clearance for the lever to use the brake.
I would like to see an actual picture of the ENTIRE mount job you did, not just close-up's of the various areas.
 
#248 ·
Rocket said:
Thats badass!!
All it needs is a stripper pole, and VEGAS BABY!!
Just kiddin
Thats really badass!
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LMAO That's a good one Rocket. I can change it back to stock in 10 minutes if I need to- but it sure is useful so far.
Built everything over xmas holiday. Platform is 24"L X 27"W and the NATO fuel cans hold 10 liters/2.6 gal each.
I have not put fuel in them yet but plan on a ride this weekend to Ft. Meyers to find highway range.
 
#258 ·
Friday I received my 40 tooth sprocket from Sprocket Specialists. First thing Saturday morning I went to the shop and pulled out one of the previously mentioned fresh chains off the shelf and got all the tools ready to change the rear sprocket and cut the new chain to the correct length. I wanted to loosely report on the time it takes to do this job. I started the job while holding a fresh mug of French roast coffee at exactly 0900 hours. I put the 2022 P.A.S. on its pivoting levitation device with very little effort due to the fact that it is always ridden in a mode that makes it very challenging to reach the ground. I went to the toolbox and withdrew my trusty 1/2 inch drive 36 mm 12 point socket that was lovingly crafted by Craftsman tools, (we fought many a battle together) and set about releasing the axle bolt from the 100 ft/lb grip of that tyrannical nuts' grasp. With a medium dead blow hammer (orange) I gave the hollow axle bolt a love tap to free it from it's forced servitude that it has had to endure since it's deployment in the great battle of the 56 tooth sprocket. It came out unscathed, however there was a crusty layer of corrosion that had built up, doubling the friction from the last time this soldier was extracted. Upon seeing the poor condition of the little guy, I made haste to the 8 inch bench grinder tenderly referred to as "ol'sparky" and used his stainless steel wire wheel to make the surface like new again- and treated it to a good dose of ACF-50 anti-corrosion treatment. As the wheel assembly was now freed from the controlling grasp of the swingarm, I rotated the wheel assembly 90 degrees with great verve and leaned it up against the aft end of the chain adjusters with sprocket side out so that I may access the five 10 mm fasteners that transmit all that power to the ground. Loosening first with a socket- then moving to a cordless driver is a good idea for the sake of time. I removed the 56 tooth sprocket and immediately set about re-installing the 40 tooth. I fastened the bolts to a minimum 55 ft/lbs with the greatest of care not to cross thread or mis-align anything as this would cause catastrophic damage.
I now am at the moment of reinstalling. Carefully centering the wheel between the arms, then bringing up the brake caliper assembly's female slot to the male casting boss on the inner right arm, then inserting the axle bolt first thru the left chain adjuster, left swingarm, 2" spacer, cush drive hub, wheel, speed sensor, and caliper mount, right swingarm, right chain adjuster, washer, nut and finally E-clip. Leave everything loose, and chain adjuster nuts should be backed out so no threads are showing, as the wheel is in the furthest foreward position. Carefully thread the new master-link style chain from the rear over the top of the rear sprocket foreward thru the hollow channel in the swingarm, and it will poke out of the chainguard, grab it and roll it around the front sprocket (neutral) and feed it back to the rear sprocket while pulling all the slack out. mark length of inner links where they come together, and cut the outside link that is excess. Install new master link (3" c-clamp and 1/4" nut method) and tighten chain counting equal threads on chain adjusters then tighten axle nut to 100 ft/lbs.
This job took 15 minutes. 40 tooth sprocket has transformed the riding experience in a much more road friendly experience. I am cruising 90 mph turning 4500 rpm at all day comfort. Each of my 3 sprockets (40, 48, 56) have dedicated chains so I can change them in 5 minutes flat.
 
Discussion starter · #260 ·
Added front and rear auxiliary lights from Denali. . . Very easy to install and truly "plug and play" with the provided adapters. Was able to snake the rear B6 tail light connector to the under seat wiring harness without having to remove the top case bracketry.
B6 Rear Light (Running Mode):
Image


For my style of riding, I don't feel the need for the giant "klieg" style lights, but like the idea of spreading the lights as far apart as feasible so they are more noticeable. Went with the T3s mounted to the air deflectors.

T3 off:
Image

(Orange dots on the air deflectors are just retro-reflective stickers)

T3 Lights (Running Mode):
Image


T3 Blinker Mode:
Image


Happy Trails,

Paul
 
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